Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Are You Really a "Positive" Trainer?


First off, when I say “trainer”, I mean ANY person teaching and working with a dog, not just professional trainers.  The most influential “trainer” in a dog’s life is usually the owner(s).

So, what makes a trainer a “positive’ one?  Well, obviously, simply proclaiming you are one thing or the other does NOT make you either.  If that were the case, I would be smart, sassy, funny and, oh yeah, skinny.  Claims are not necessarily based in any kind of reality.  In dog training and in life, actions speak louder than words.  You can “talk the talk” all you want but you need to “walk the walk”.

A client of mine recently took his puppy to a PK group class at the local big box store.  I had mixed feelings about this but since I was not currently running a PK class, I had nothing else to offer him in the way of a group – my bad.  I advised him to make sure that it was a positive, rewards-based program that focused on proper socialization and basic manners.  My client told me that the big-box trainer assured him the program was rewards-based and all positive.  Ok, great!  The following week I was so very happy to hear that my client’s pup was the “star of the show” (his words), doing everything so wonderfully in class and garnering many accolades from the trainer and fellow students.  Yay!  I didn’t need to hear that to be validated, but it was really nice for my client to get validation from a third party.  He was happy, so that made me happy.  Not to mention that it didn’t hurt me in the area of client buy-in.  Oops, guess I mentioned it :)

Then my client told me how his puppy was terrified when the puppies were let off-leash to play and all the other puppies seemed to target her… uh oh.  Understandably concerned for his puppy’s mental state, my client scooped up his puppy to spare her the trauma and was informed by the trainer “that was the worst thing you could have done”… clunk, the first shoe falls.  The trainer carried a squirt bottle with water (at least I hope it was only water) and asked the puppy owners if he could squirt their pups for barking… BOOM, that was the second shoe falling and a cement one at that!
 
Is this trainer the positive, rewards-based trainer as he CLAIMED to be?  Not by my definition.  He may use rewards in teaching but his first response to a NORMAL and PREDICTABLE puppy behavior (barking) was to punish it!  His method for dog-to-dog socialization was to allow multiple exuberant, playful puppies to descend upon a frightened one. Telling my client that picking up his puppy was the wrong thing to do implies that the trainer believes that a frightened puppy must learn how to deal by toughing it out.  Really?  Since when does anyone learn under stress, fear and duress?  If a child felt bullied at school, would this trainer tell the parents to let the child tough it out?    But, I’m making a short story rather long so, more on what I would have done another time and moving on…

So, again, what is a positive trainer?  There are many phrases bandied about – dog friendly, force-free, rewards-based, science-based – the list is extensive.  They all sound good and, indeed, in theory they are.  But it’s the practice that counts.

IMO, a dog-friendly, force-free, rewards-based trainer follows the “Humane Hierarchy” with heavy emphasis on the first four steps in that order.  A trainer should look at every situation or problem and attempt to solve by going through the steps of the Humane Hierarchy. That’s it, pure and simple.  What is the “Humane Hierarchy”?  Oh, I am SOO glad you asked!  Let’s take a look at the first four steps and leave the rest to another day…

1 - Physical well-being of the dog.  Physical needs and well-being must be considered and addressed first and foremost.  You do not train a dog in physical discomfort or pain. 

Seems obvious, right?  Or is it?  Let’s look at that terrified puppy in group class.  Yes, that was an emotional state but what happens to a body under stress?  Elevated blood pressure and heart rate and increased adrenaline, to name a few things.  Was that puppy’s physical needs being considered when the trainer said my client should have left his puppy on the floor to fend for herself? That is a resounding NO.  I am glad my client followed his heart and his gut and sought to lessen his puppy’s anxiety by removing her from the situation in which she felt threatened.  How would I have handled that event in a group class?  lol – that’s a post for another day J

2 – Controlling Antecedents aka managing the dog’s environment to eliminate stimuli/triggers that can lead to undesirable behaviors.

If one can AVOID a problem behavior by removing the “cause”, why not?  That is the least stressful and least invasive way to shape desirable behaviors.  My favorite example is the shoe-chewing puppy.  Remove the shoes – problem solved!  Why bother trying to teach something else or, heaven forbid, punish a normal puppy behavior?  Take away the antecedent and the problem is gone.  AND, guess what?  That which your puppy does not get to do when s/he is a pup, is that which s/he is NOT likely to do as an adult.  My pups never saw a shoe other than the ones on my feet when they were young.  Now, shoes strewn about the floor have no meaning or interest for them.  Problem solved BEFORE it started.

3 - Positive Reinforcement

Use PR to teach your dog as many desirable behaviors as possible.  Teach your dog that the behaviors you prefer are fabulous because they are very rewarding.  If you fill your dog’s brain and life with the behaviors you like, there is little or no room in his/her brain and life for the behaviors you don’t like!

4 - Differential Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors.  That’s a mouthful.  Basically what this means is to make a different behavior more rewarding than another behavior.

So, you have a “problem” behavior that is not solved by addressing a physical need and the antecedent (trigger) cannot be removed. Many people go straight to punishment with a problem behavior.  In general, we humans tend to be very punitive – something with which I struggle daily both in myself and those around me.  The truly positive trainer seeks to redirect the dog to a different behavior in the presence of the trigger.  It takes more time and effort but, in the end, produces better results.  IMO, punishment often fails and, when it succeeds, it is very stressful on the dog.  Why, you ask?  Hmmm… yet another post for another day.
 
There’s more to the hierarchy, steps 5 and 6, to be explored another day.  The first four are what, IMO, should fill a trainer’s toolbox leaving little or no room for 5 and 6. 

In short (although I suspect the dog has long since dashed that door),  a positive trainer is one that chooses to be PROactive, rather than REactive, choosing first and foremost to avoid problems, teach desired behaviors and redirect unwanted behaviors.  In other words…

Directions, not corrections!

 
HAPPY TAILS!

Friday, July 1, 2011

Fourth of July Safety Tips

Fourth of July Safety Tips

• Never leave alcoholic drinks unattended where your dog can reach them. Alcoholic beverages have the potential to poison pets. If ingested, the animal could become very intoxicated and weak, severely depressed or could go into a coma. Death from respiratory failure is also a possibility in severe cases.

• Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.

• Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of your pets’ reach. Certain types of matches contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing or even kidney disease in severe cases. Lighter fluid can be irritating to skin and, if ingested, can produce gastrointestinal irritation and central nervous system depression. If lighter fluid is inhaled, aspiration pneumonia and breathing problems could develop.

• Keep your dog on his normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give your pooch indigestion and diarrhea. This is particularly true for older dogs who have more delicate digestive systems and nutritional requirements. Foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, grapes & raisins, salt and yeast dough can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.

• Do not put glow jewelry on your pets, or allow them to play with it. While the luminescent substance contained in these products is not highly toxic, excessive drooling and gastrointestinal irritation could still result from ingestions. Intestinal blockage could occur from swallowing large pieces of the plastic containers.

• Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingestions can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression. If inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia in pets.

• Never use fireworks around pets! Exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns and/or trauma to the face and paws of curious pets. Even unused fireworks can pose a danger; many types contain potentially toxic substances, including potassium nitrate, arsenic and other heavy metals.

• Loud, crowded fireworks displays are no fun for your pets. Please resist the urge to take the furkids to Independence Day festivities. Instead, keep your little guys safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered and escape-proof area at home.

NOW YOU KNOW – BE SMART, BE SAFE!

HAPPY TAILS!

Friday, June 10, 2011

Summer Safety for Your Dog





Summer is coming and “THE HEAT IS ON!” Helpful tips to keep your favorite Fido safe and comfortable when the mercury rises.

In summertime dogs (and cats) can suffer from the same problems that humans do - overheating, dehydration and even sunburn. By taking some simple precautions, you can enjoy the season and keep your pooch happy and healthy.

- A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must; add to that a test for heartworm, if your dog isn't on year-round preventive medication.
- Do parasites pester your pooch? Ask your veterinarian to recommend a safe, effective flea and tick control program.
- NEVER leave your dog alone in a vehicle! Hyperthermia (overheating) can be fatal. A parked automobile becomes a furnace in hot weather. Even with the windows open, temperatures within the vehicle can soar to over 120 in no time. Parking in the shade is not the answer. While the shade of a nice tree may offer some protection, don’t forget, the sun shifts during the day and a car originally parked in the shade may end up in full sun.
- NEVER walk or play with Fido in the height of the sun. The right time for playtime is in the cooler early morning or evening but NOT after a meal or when the weather is humid.
- Street smarts: When the temperature is high or the sun is strong, don’t let your dog stand on hot asphalt. His or her body can heat up quickly and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum. An easy way to check the asphalt is with the back of your hand. If it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot for Fido.
- Street smarts: When walking your dog, avoid areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals.
- Street smarts: Be alert for coolant or other automotive fluid leaking from vehicles and keep Rover away. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste but ingesting just a small amount can be fatal. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect that your animal has been poisoned.
- Always carry a thermos filled with cold, fresh water when traveling with your pet.
- Provide fresh water and plenty of shade for animals kept outdoors; a properly constructed & vented doghouse will serve well. Canopies and canopy tents are another way to offer shade for your pet. Add a small wading pool with 2-3 inches of water to give your dog another cooling option.
- Bring your dog (or cat) inside during the hotter part of the day to rest in a cool part of the house. Cellars and basements are excellent for a cool reprieve without air-conditioning.
- Be especially sensitive to older and overweight animals in hot weather.
- Brachycephalic (snub-nosed) dogs such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers, Lhasa Apsos and Shih Tzus, as well as those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.
- Good grooming can stave off summer skin problems, especially for dogs with heavy coats. Trimming the hair to a one-inch length helps prevent overheating. NEVER shave your pooch down to the skin - it robs Rover of his natural sun protection.
- Do NOT apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.
- Having a backyard barbecue? Always keep matches, lighter fluid, citronella candles and insect coils out of Rover’s reach.
- Please make sure that there are no open, unscreened windows or doors in your home through which animals can fall or jump.

Stay alert for signs of overheating in pets, which include excessive panting and/or drooling, lethargy, weakness, red tongue and elevated body temperature.

WATER SAFETY
For many families, summertime means swimming time. If your pooch will be joining you on your waterhole adventures, please follow these tips:


- A day at the beach is a no-no, unless you can guarantee a shaded spot and plenty of fresh water for your companion.
- Salty dogs should be rinsed off after a dip in the ocean.
- DON’T ASSUME all dogs can swim! Some dogs are NOT good swimmers and longhaired dogs may struggle against the weight of their soaked hair to keep afloat. If water sports are a big part of your family, please introduce your dog to water gradually and consider using canine flotation devices.
- Do NOT leave pets unsupervised around a pool. Too many unsupervised dogs have met with tragedy around the pool. Even the best swimmers are at risk if unsupervised.
- Rinse your pool-swimming pooch with fresh water after a dip – chlorine and other chemicals can irritate the skin if not thoroughly rinsed off.
- Try not to let your dog drink pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that can cause GI upset.
- Make sure all pets wear flotation devices on boats.


Be smart and consider your pet when making your summertime plans. Think ahead and be prepared by stocking a “doggy bag” with food, cool fresh water, bowls, flotation device, first-aid kit, towels, umbrella, leash and toys and you will be prepared for almost anything!

NOW YOU KNOW!

HAPPY TAILS!